How to Knit in Jersey

How to Knit in Jersey

How to Knit in Jersey

Contents

    – Knitting in purl jersey

    – Knitting in purl stitch

    – Adding selvage stitches in stockinette stitch

Knitting in stockinette is the perfect exercise for beginners who want to learn how to knit because all you need to know is the basic stitches: the purl and the obverse stitch. It is a regular, flat stitch used to knit sweaters easily. It has the peculiarity of rolling on the edges, so it is advisable to use it for works requiring seams or adding borders so that it does not roll. There are two types of stockinette stitch: purl and a single stitch.

Here’s how to knit in purl or obverse stockinette.

Knitting in right-side stockinette

Right side stockinette stitch is achieved by alternating one row of right side stitch with one row of purl stitch when knitting with straight needles. The right side stockinette is a sequence of V’s on the right side of the work. As it rolls over the edges, it is possible to add selvages to obtain a flat knit.

Knitting in right-sided stockinette with straight needles

    1. Knit the desired number of stitches. Jersey stitch is knitted on an even or odd number of stitches because it is not a fancy stitch.

    2. Knit the first-row right side up.

    3. Knit the second-row purl.

    4. Always repeat these two rows throughout the knitting process.

Remember: place the yarn in front of the work when knitting purl and behind the work when knitting purl.

Knitting in right side stockinette with circular needles

Right side stockinette is achieved by knitting all the stitches right side up in each row because the work is always done on the right side when knitting in the round. Knitting in the round does not require edge stitches.

    1. Stitch the desired number of stitches on an even or odd number of stitches.

    2. Knit the first round right side up and mark the end of the round with a loop made of colored yarn. The stitch binding-off yarn can also be used as a marker at the end of the row.

    3. Knit all rounds right side up.

    4. Be sure to pull the first two stitches of the round tightly together not to create a boundary.

Note: the yarn connected to the ball is always behind the work when knitting in the round in purl.

Knitting in purl stockinette

Purl stockinette is a tight wave pattern that looks like a moss stitch. Purl stockinette is achieved by alternating a purl row on the right side of the work and a right side row on the wrong side when knitting with straight needles. This stitch is also visible on the wrong side of a work knitted in purl.

Knitting in purl with straight needles

    1. Stitch the required number of stitches. Purl stitch is knitted on an even or odd number of stitches.

    2. Knit the first-row purl.

    3. Knit the second-row purl.

    4. Always repeat these two rows.

Place the yarn in front of the work to knit the purl rows on the right side of the work.

Place the yarn behind the work to knit the purl rows on the wrong side of the work.

Knitting purl with circular needles (in the round)

    1. Stitch the required number of stitches.

    2. Mark the end of the round with colored yarn or mark the end with yarn.

    3. Knit all rounds inside out.

Place the yarn in front of the work to knit the purl rounds.

Adding edge stitches to stockinette stitch

How to Knit in Jersey

Because stockinette stitch rolls on the edges, it is sometimes necessary to add edge stitches to achieve a flat knit (edge stitches are the first and last stitches in a row). If a rolling edge is the desired effect or if it is indicated in the pattern you are knitting, it is not mandatory to add flat edges in work. It is also possible to iron your knitted fabric to flatten the edges. If you are knitting something intended for sewing, selvages are unnecessary, so the result is usually interwoven.

The simple chain selvage

    – Place the yarn connected to the ball at the back of the work.

    – On the right side of the work, slip the first stitch from the left needle onto the right needle as if knitting it right side up, then knit the next stitch’s right side up.

    – Knit the last stitch right side up.

    – On the wrong side of the work, place the yarn in front of the work.

    – Slip the first stitch from the left needle onto the right needle as if knitting purl, and then knit the next stitch purl.

    – Knit the selvage stitches in each row of the work.

The simple beaded selvage

    – Place the yarn connected to the ball at the back of the work.

    – On the right side of the work, slip the first stitch from the left needle onto the right needle as if you were knitting it right side up, then knit the following stitches as usual.

    – Knit the last stitch right side up.

    – On the wrong side of the work, slip the first stitch from the left needle onto the right needle as if knitting right side up, and then knit the following stitches right side up.

    – Knit the edge stitches in each row of the work.

Note: Be sure to pull the edge stitches tight on both sides of the work to create a clean, even edge.

    – To prevent the edge of the binding-off stitches from rolling over the stockinette stitch, plan to knit a few rows of mossy or 1/1 ribbing. This is a method often used to knit sweaters.

Read more:

How to use a router (1)

How to Use a Router

How to Use a Router

Contents

– Focus on safety rules

– Step 1: Start the router

– Step 2: Rip and steer a router

– Step 3: Stop the router

A router is a power tool that offers many possibilities for woodworking.

It combines the advantages of precision and speed for making joints, such as grooves, moldings, mortises, and tenons…

Once you have learned the basics, using a router will seem no more complicated than using any other power tool, and it will quickly become indispensable in your workshop.

But before you get down to the nitty-gritty, it is essential to know the basics of how to use and handle your router for safe and efficient work.

Here are our tips on how to use a router.

Focus on safety rules

The router is a safer tool than other tools because the hands are away from the router.

Nevertheless, it is essential to wear personal protection such as:

– a dust mask;

– a pair of safety glasses.

It is also important to wait until the machine has come to a complete stop before disconnecting it for any work, such as changing the cutter or making adjustments.

Caution: keep children and pets away from the working area.

1. Switch on the router

– Check that the router is up, and then position the router as you work:

◦ full panel: when you are making a groove along the entire length or width of the workpiece;

◦ or in non-through work: when you make a notch for a hinge, it is limited and does not come out at the end of the wood panel.

– Put the router in position:

◦ Position the ripper sole on the edge of the panel at the point where the routing starts for complete panel work.

◦ Position the router at the desired location for non-throughput work.

– Switch on the machine and wait for it to run entirely before lowering the router.

– Secure the position, and start routing.

2. Roughing and steering a router

How to use a router (1)

Smoothly, push the router in gradually, keeping your wrists loose and the machine firmly in place.

It is challenging to keep the tool in line, and it is advisable to use guides unless you are using rolling cutters. These guides allow you to stay in line, and this is because the machine tends to deviate from its course during milling.

Different guides and templates depending on the machining task, some of which are supplied with the machine, but you can also use your design guides.

In the latter case, the placement of the router and the fence is critical.

3. Stop the router

At the end of the pass, switch off the motor and let the sole rise for the whole panel work.

If you are not working on a panel, let the base plate rise at the end of the pass and then switch off the motor.

Caution: in all cases, wait until the motor has stopped completely before moving the router or making any adjustments.

Equipment needed to use a router.

Router $100 to buy or $35 per day to rent
Protective mask $1 approx.
Safety glasses $6 approx.

This post is incomplete without your esteemed feedback, so remember to share your experience in the comment section below.

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3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

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The 7 Top Safety Precautions for DIY

5 Steps to Driving a Nail Like a Pro

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

Contents

    – Step 1: Make an invigorating shower gel

    – Step 2: Make a relaxing body wash

    – Step 3: Make a shower gel for sensitive skin

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

Conventional shower gels contain a lot of chemicals that are harmful to your skin and the environment. Yet, there are simple recipes to make natural shower gels yourself, with elements that respect nature. So have fun testing and developing the recipes that suit you best.

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1. Make an invigorating shower gel

Aleppo soap
Aleppo soap

In the morning, the shower should give us the energy we need to face the day. For a tonic wake up, you will need :

    – 50 g of Aleppo soap: this is a natural soap made from olive oil and laurel that is hypoallergenic and suitable for all skin types;

    – 1 liter of water;

    – 5 drops of essential oil of peppermint: it is tonic and stimulating;

    – 5 drops of essential oil of black spruce: it is very effective in case of fatigue;

    – 2 tablespoons of vegetable glycerin: it will moisturize the skin and bring smoothness to the shower gel (in organic stores or pharmacies);

    – 2 drops of vitamin E: it will be used as conservative (in pharmacy).

It will help if you prepare your shower gel in the kitchen. This mixture does not foam but cleans the skin perfectly.

    1. Grate the soap and heat the water and soap in a large pan at a very low flame for about 15 minutes.

    2. Stir until soap is dissolved.

    3. Add the essential oils.

    4. Let cool for 1 hour.

    5. Add glycerin and vitamin E.

Good to know: you can add a little water if the mixture seems too thick. You can keep it for about 2 months.

2. Make a soothing shower gel

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel
3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

After a stressful day, it’s always nice to take a shower to unwind and release the tensions accumulated during the day. For a relaxing shower gel, you will need:

    – 150 ml of unscented liquid Castile soap: it is made from olive oil and is very gentle on the skin;

    – 60 ml of honey: ideal for its softening virtues and its perfume;

    – 20 ml of macadamia vegetable oil: it has softening, nourishing, and soothing properties and leaves the skin soft and silky;

    – 10 drops of essential oil of lavandin: it has calming, relaxing, and sedative;

    – 10 drops of essential oil of petitgrain bigarade: it is relaxing and sedative;

    – 4 drops of vitamin E: it will serve as a preservative (in pharmacy).

The manufacture of this soothing shower gel is straightforward.

    1. Mix the soap and the honey.

    2. Add the vegetable oil as well as the essential oils.

    3. Pour this mixture into a shower gel bottle or an empty bottle.

    4. Shake before each use.

Good to know: the shower gel is to be used in the 12 months following its manufacture.

3. Make a shower gel for sensitive skin

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel
Sensitive skin

Body skin can be fragile and have areas of dryness or eczema. For this gentle recipe for the most demanding skin, you will need:

    – 50 g of aloe vera gel: it will soothe inflammation and itching;

    – 30 ml of vegetable oil of calendula: it calms the cutaneous irritations;

    – 4 drops of essential oil of palmarosa: it is very effective in the event of eczema;

    3 drops of solubol will allow dispersing the vegetable oils and the essential oils in the aqueous mixture that is the aloe vera gel.

Mix all these ingredients, pouring the aloe vera gel last. Pour this mixture into a bottle and shake.

Good to know: for pregnant women, remove the essential oils from the recipes. Do not forget to disinfect the equipment with alcohol before preparing the mixtures.

Equipment needed to make your natural shower gel.

Aleppo soap
Aleppo soap
Bowl From your kitchen
Saucepan From your kitchen
Bottle $1
Aloe vera gel About $9
Glycerin About $6 per 500 ml
Vegetable oil About $7 per 50 mL
Essential oils From $3 per 10 ml
Honey From $5 to $25 per 300 g depending on the type
Aleppo Soap Starting at $3

Hope this post will help you. Remember to share your experience below.

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Driving a Nail

5 Steps to Driving a Nail Like a Pro

5 Steps to Driving a Nail Like a Pro

 Summary

 – Step 1: Adopt the correct postures

 – Step 2: Case 1: Hold the large nails in your hand

 – Step 2: Case 2: Hold small nails without hitting your fingers

 – Step 3: Drive nails to reinforce fasteners

 – Step 4: Don’t splinter the wood when driving your nails

 – Step 5: Conceal the nail head

 – Drive special nails

 Driving a nail (or spike) correctly is not a trivial task. They tend to bend in all directions, and the novice user almost invariably ends up with a bandage on his or her fingertips. However, with a bit of method and a few tricks, you can easily solve the matter!

 Here’s how to get your nails right.

 1. Adopt the correct postures

 Hold the hammer properly.

 Handling the hammer is at least as important as holding the nail. Of course, the hammer is held by the handle. But the hand is not randomly positioned on the handle.

 – To begin, hold the hammer close to the head so that you have the best possible accuracy. Ensure that the tip (the flat part) is perpendicular to the axis of the nail shaft and strike in short bursts.

 – Once the nail holds itself in the holder, release it and move your hand back on the hammer handle to increase leverage and force. Then strike harder, always keeping the tip of the tool perpendicular to the axis of the nail.

 – For small nails that barely fit between your fingers, use the tapered end of the hammer (carpenter’s or electrician’s hammer). Strike gently, then turn the hammer over and strike harder, as explained above.

 The right position

 The ideal position, when possible, is to position yourself so that the eye is level with the head of the nail. This way, the natural striking angle will limit the risk of twisting. With your feet slightly apart and firmly planted on the floor or step ladder, stand back enough so that the hammer handle is parallel to the surface (board or wall) at the end of the stroke.

 2. Case 1: Hand-holding large nails

Driving a Nail

 Large carpenter’s nails are easy to hold because of their length. The most precise gesture is to hold them an almost full hand, thumb, and little finger from underneath. With practice, the gesture will become perfectly natural.

 It is advisable to wear protective gloves, as the power of the stroke required to drive the hammer can be dangerous if you slip.

 Good to know: the longer the point, the more likely it is to bend under the hammering. If it starts to twist in one direction, orient your hammer so that you hit the head in the opposite direction of the deformation.

 2. Case 2: Hold small nails without hitting your fingers

 Shorter nails require more precision. They are held between the thumb and forefinger, with the other three fingers spread wide apart to not interfere with the striking.

 To avoid hitting your fingers when driving tiny nails, especially with upholsterer’s seeds or headless pins that are difficult to hold, use small flat-nosed pliers or drive the nail into a strip of corrugated cardboard in advance. Then present the nail to the chosen location and push it in safely. Once the pin is sufficiently driven in, tear off the cardboard and finish driving it in.

 Caution: it is common to see users at work with the nails between their lips (or even in their mouths for seeds and small nails). It is imperative to use a cup within reach, a tool belt, or even a magnetic bracelet, as rustproofing products and metal particles are indeed harmful compounds!

 3. Plant spikes to reinforce fasteners

 A spike planted straight, perpendicular to the support, ensures an average fastener that will not resist pulling out. Giving it a bit of an angle will make it stronger.

 Drive the nail at an angle of at least 20 degrees (up to 45°) upwards in the case of a suspension, in a wall, or a wooden partition.

 In the case of a multi-piece assembly:

 – Always consider fastening the thinner piece to the thicker one to increase embedment depth and improve anchorage in the more massive one.

 – Always choose a point with a length slightly less than the thickness of the two pieces to be joined (- 1 cm), possibly considering the additional driving depth if you conceal the head.

 – Whenever possible, cross the points in an “X” shape or alternate the direction of driving to obtain better resistance in all directions.

 4. Don’t split the wood when driving your nails

 Especially above 3 or 4 mm, nails tend to spread the wood grain and cause it to splinter. Even more so near the ends. There are several ways to drive your nails without splitting the wood:

 – If you must align several nails on the same piece of wood, position them in a staggered pattern. This staggering will prevent the nails from splitting the wood by spreading the wire.

 – Alternatively, use a small wood bit to drill a pilot hole through the entire thickness of the piece.

 – When drilling is impossible, dull the nail. To do this, turn the nail over on a hard surface (anvil, vice, stone, sledgehammer, etc.) and strike the tip with a sharp hammer. This will blunt the nail and shear the fibers instead of pulling them apart.

 5. Conceal the nail head

 A visible nail head can be very unsightly, especially in woodworking. It can also become an obstacle, for example, when laying a floor on joists, as you must perfectly drive each nail in to allow the installation of the next board.

 – With round-headed nails, minimal diameter, the simplest method is to make them disappear in the wood with a nail punch. One to two millimeters is more than enough. Soft and fibrous woods will almost certainly close up and hide the joint. If not, a little wood filler will do the trick.

 – To hide a significant point or flathead, the method is to lift a small chip of wood with a small (8 to 10 mm wide), very sharp chisel. Push the point into the groove and finish with a punch as before. Finally, replace the chip with a clamp after dripping a drop of wood glue. Wipe off any drips before drying with a damp cloth.

 Drive special nails

 Some nail designs require particular installation or precautions.

 – Spikes (or carpenter rider nails) are generally used to fasten wire or wire mesh to fence posts or other vertical pieces. To avoid bouncing the support, press a sledgehammer back with your other hand after starting to drive as with a normal spike. The heavy tool will absorb the shock and prevent the post from moving.

 – Hardened spikes (for concrete spikes) are highly brittle due to their heat treatment. Be sure to protect your eyes with safety glasses.

 – Decorative nails, especially round-headed upholstery nails, are extremely fragile. It is best to use a hammer with a hard plastic head (auto bodywork hammer). Be especially careful not to bend the shank or the head. Strike gently from end to end. The same goes for special nails used to fasten corrugated sheets or bitumen shingles.

 Tip: Metal detectors are available for a few dozen dollars. They will allow you to detect metal structures, rebar, piping, and live electrical cables in the walls before driving a nail into them.

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