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Sanding Paint

3 Steps for Sanding Paint

3 Steps for Sanding Paint

Summary

    – Step 1: Prepare to sand the paint

    – Step 2: Sanding Your Surface

    – Step 3: Apply the finishing touches

Sanding paint increases the adhesion of the substrate before repainting. Sanding the surface is usually sufficient.

However, depending on the thickness of the layer of paint applied and if you wish to expose your surface, it is preferable to start by stripping the paint chemically or thermally.

Sanding paint on any surface can be relatively time-consuming. Prefer electric tools which will save you a lot of time.

Warning: sanding a wall covered with lead or asbestos paint is dangerous for your health! These paints have respectively been banned globally. If you suspect the presence of these paints in your home, call a professional who will carry out a diagnosis. These diagnoses are mandatory when buying or renting real estate.

1. Prepare the sanding of the paint

Depending on the surface to be painted, it is necessary to remove the part to be sanded (a door, for example). This removal is done on trestles so that you can work quickly.

If possible, do the sanding outside your home. If you can’t, protect your furniture with old sheets or tarps.

To protect the floors, proceed as follows:

    – Lay out a tarp or polyethylene film on the floor.

    – Depending on the room’s surface, the films or tarpaulins can be superimposed to avoid dust infiltration.

    – Secure this film with masking tape.

    – To avoid breathing paint dust, protect yourself with a mask.

    – Also, protect your eyes with goggles.

2. Sand your surface

Sanding Paint

Whatever the surface you want to sand, you will need two sanders:

    – the belt or circular/giraffe sander to roughen the work;

    – the triangular (or angular) sander for the difficult parts.

Tip: To be able to sand without the risk of unplugging the sander, it is advisable to connect the tool’s plug to a 5 or 10 m extension cord.

For all solid surfaces, use the belt or circular sander.

    – Use coarse sandpaper.

    – Run the belt sander over the surface flush with the paint so as not to damage the substrate: the goal is to scratch the old paint.

    – Make sure you have scratched the paint as much as possible.

Once the sanding is complete, use the angle sander for sanding any corners or hard-to-reach areas.

3. Putting on the finishing touches

Before applying the coating of your choice, dust your surface with a cloth or vacuum cleaner. If necessary, wash your surface, rinse and let dry. 

Equipment for sanding paint

Vacuum cleaner, depending on the performance.
Tarp Starting at $8
Recovery cloth
Gloves, goggles, and mask About $1
Sanding paper for sander About $5 per 3 sheets
Belt sander About $25/day rental
Angle sander Approximately $21/day rental
Extension cord About $5 per 5 m
Masking tape $1 per roll

Read more:

– DIY: How to Make a Wooden Crate;

– How to Clean Your Painting Equipment (Part 1);

– How to Do a Paint Touch-Up;

– How to Drill a Sink;

– How to Install a Sink;

– How to Paint With a Brush (Part 1);

– How Do You Drill a Wall;

– Painting With an Airless Sprayer;

– The Essential Craftsperson Tools (Part 1);

– The Tools Every Craftsperson Should Have (Part 2);

– 3 Steps for Using a Jigsaw;

– How to Sew Jersey;

– How to Sew an Appliqué;

– 3 Steps to Assemble a Knitted Fabric.

Hope you like this post and the ones in the above links. Visit our blog to read more about the craftsperson, and don’t forget to leave your comments below.

paper

Top 5 Things To Do With Paper

Paper is used and abused on a daily basis and has always been. And it took us a long time before we became aware of the dramas that this overconsumption was causing. As a society, we need to get it together and start taking care of our planet, and one way to do this is to lessen our use of paper and recycle old ones.

But because it’s better late than never and because many individuals and brands want to make a difference by recycling paper, we decided to bring you some ideas so that you, too, from your home and without pressure, can play a role in recycling paper. So, without further ado, let’s dive into this blog and learn some of our tips for recycling old and unused paper.

How to recycle newsprint?

paper

The first tip is for household chores. When it is difficult to clean the windows of the house, it is possible to use newspaper. Simply crumple it up and dampen it a little, then apply it like a cloth to scrub a window or mirror. The result is impeccable. Plus, it saves on detergents. Newspaper can also be used to clean various surfaces, such as a barbecue grill or a tiled work surface.

Newspaper can also be used as a bottom for trash cans. This way, it absorbs the moisture that organic waste often produces. In other cases, it can even be used as a garbage bag. To do this, simply fold it into a large cone shape.

The newspaper also helps protect the refrigerator from bad odors. The idea is to spread the sheets at the bottom of the crispers so that the food doesn’t leave an odor. To avoid the smell of fish or meat, it is advisable to wrap the food in newspaper. This wrapping method is also effective for quickly ripening fruits or vegetables.

1. Create an origami lamp

Paper can be used to cover lamps and light bulbs in an original way. To do this, you’ll need a ruler, a pencil, sheets of paper that aren’t too thin, cardboard, string, scissors, glue, and something to perforate the sheets. You can then let your imagination run wild.

It is also possible to glue or roll up pages of the newspaper (or paper scraps) on a lampshade to give it a modern and original look. Perfect when you want to redecorate your home in an eco-responsible way without buying new objects. In any case, be careful not to glue the paper directly to the light fixture to avoid any risk.

2. Use newspapers as trivets

paper

Newspapers, scissors, and glue are all you need to make sturdy, original, and eco-friendly trivets. Once the pages are cut into four strips (it can be a newspaper, magazine, or old comic book …), you must roll each strip on itself to obtain a spiral. Then, glue them side by side, depending on the size of the coaster desired (for glass, plate, dish).

3. Make gift wrap out of it

Birthdays and holidays often rhyme with wrapping and paper. But instead of investing in paper that will be torn and thrown away, you might as well turn to eco-responsible packaging. Newspapers or sheets printed on one side only can be used to create eco-friendly packaging without having to invest in single-use paper.

4. Use it as an envelope

paper

Sheets of paper, newspaper, or magazine pages can also be used to send mail. If you run out of small envelopes or want to replace them altogether, you can fold an A4 size paper and insert a letter inside. The magazine of creative and ecological ideas gives examples of creations.

5. Making a bracelet (to do with children)

For fancy jewelry made from recycled materials, pages of magazines, newspapers, or printed sheets do the trick. Add glue, scissors, and the cardboard from a paper towel roll to cut. The size is made according to the width of the desired bracelet. Then you have to cut the cardboard to create an opening space to put it on the wrist.

Once done, previously cut paper strips can be glued on. Halloween being at the end of the month, these bracelets will be ideal to accompany costumes or any other occasion. This is one of those crafts that are perfect for doing with your kids or even younger siblings and is an ideal way to teach them about the importance of recycling.

Sound off in the comments section below and tell us what you want to read next and if you want to read more about recycling old paper.

10 Craft Ideas With Seashells

Many are those who enjoy summer days. The truth is that it seems that we make the most of all typical objects of this season to create beautiful decorations for your home or to make jewelleries. One of these objects is seashell. Do you want to know more about what you can craft with seashells? You’ve reached the right place as this is exactly what we are going to cover today! Enjoy!

1.Photos

This idea is perfect for those who have a house in a coastal area and want to decorate it with a marine vibe. Just buy photos with a nice background (like of the beach) and glue the shells or starfish on it.

2.Wall Decorations

Sea Shell Wall Hanging Ideas

If you have a boring plain white wall and don’t really know what to do with it, here is the solution – create a wall decorated with seashells. What do you need? Transparent or nylon tread, seashells and pieces of polished rocks or corals that you can find during a walk on the beach. Insert each piece by tying small knots, creating the strips you need to cover the wall and then hand them up.

3.Beautiful Bottles

Take advantage of the glass bottles you have at home and with some string and some shells or corals, create decorative bottles. Simply wrap a string around the bottle neck and before cutting it, insert your seashells. Or, you can also glue your seashells on the string.

4.Exotic Bathing Suits

Crochet Bikini Set Tan Brown Bronze Bikini With Sea Shells | Etsy | Bikini de ganchillo, Bikinis tejidas a crochet, Patrón para bikini de ganchillo

Yes, you’ve read that right! What do you think of this idea? No need to browse the shelves of endless stores looking for the perfect swimming suit anymore. You can simply buy a basic one and personalize it with some seashells. You can sew them on the bottom or wherever you like, making your unique design.

5.Seashells for Your Hanging Plants

Hanging pots are very trendy: cement vases, wooden vases, macramé vases, etc. But what if instead of using large pots, you use large seashells or sea urchin shells to hang your succulents and create a jellyfish like effect. We are sure you and everyone seeing them will love them!

6.Personalized Invitation Cards

Custom Listing (100) SeaShell Wedding Invitation, Beach Wedding Invitation, Destination Wedding Invitation, Destination Invitations #2303982 - Weddbook

This idea is perfect for those who are getting married for example or hosting an event of some sort in a coastal area. Make your own exquisite invitations to leave your guests speechless. All you need is some scrap paper, glue, strings and lots of seashells, The results can be amazing!

7.Garland of Lights

Get a light garland without any decoration and, using a hot glue gun, glue a seashell on each bulb. This way, you will quickly and easily create a light garland with seashells.

8.Dream Catcher

If you love crafting with seashells, this option is another perfect one. Create a dream catcher with many shells. And, when you hang it, when there will be a little wind, you will hear the peaceful sound of shells clicking with each other. It is beautiful to decorate the porch of a house or any other outdoor space with it. You can even hang it in your bedroom.

9.Bottle Lamps

Blue Sea Shell Bottle Lamp Marine Style Outdoor Fairy Light | Etsy | Blue wine bottles, Wine bottle lamp, Outdoor fairy lights

We have often seen lamps made with a glass bottle but why not upgrade it by filling the bottle with some fabulous seashells. We guarantee a breathtaking outcome!

10.Candles in Seashells

This one is probably the easiest seashell craft of our list. When you see that the candles you have at home are burning out, take the opportunity to melt the wax in a container. You can paint your shells to your liking and then pour the wax into the shells and place a wick in the middle of each one.

What do you think of these ideas? If you, too, love to take a walk on the beach and pick up shells along the way, be sure to let us know what you’re going to do with them by leaving a comment below.

 

5 Tips and Recipes for Making Play Dough for Your Kids

Childhood is a very important time for developing and learning skills through play. One of the main features of play dough, for example, is that it helps to improve the toddlers’ motor skills.

Materials like play dough, cardboard or clay make it easier for children to grasp objects and learn to move their fingers independently. Thanks to these games, learning to write at school is made easier as they conveniently learn to hold a pencil or pen firmly.

  • Stimulating Creativity

Children use play dough in both preschool and primary school. Through play, they strengthen their imagination, develop their motor skills, learn about and mix colors, and are able to make figures with clay modeling structures that symbolize shapes, animals, people, objects, etc. This is an ideal activity for developing creativity in toddlers.

  • Increase Concentration

Children get excited and create whatever they think of. By doing such a fun and educational activity, little ones stay focused as they play and interact with the material.

  • Facilitate Their Literacy

Literacy stimulation allows children to make much more precise movements while simultaneously using their eyes, hands or fingers. Play dough helps them develop this aspect as they can cut out concepts of quantity and proportion, which are very important around two to three years old.

Don’t want to buy play dough or invest in it? Not to worry! You can easily make it at home. Want to learn more? Below, we bring you tips and recipes on how you can craft your own play dough at home! Enjoy the discovery.. and the making.

Oatmeal Play Dough

Mix one cup of wheat flour with two cups of oat flour and one cup of water in a bowl. Knead until you have a smooth dough. While this dough is not meant to be eaten, even if it happens that your child put some in his mouth, you can be sure that nothing will happen to him.

Storage: It will last a few days if you keep it covered in the refrigerator. It can last longer if you bake it for a few minutes.

Raw Modeling Clay

Salt retains moisture and makes the dough malleable. You will need one glass of water, one glass of salt, two teaspoons of vegetable oil, 3 glasses of flour and two tablespoon of starch. You can also add a few drops of food coloring if you wish.

Mix the water, salt, oil with your food coloring to make an intense color. Then add the flour and starch, little by little until you have a cookie dough.

Storage: Keep it covered for it to last for a few days.

Salt Play Dough

You will need one glass of salt, half a glass of flour and one glass of water.

Mix the ingredients and cook over medium heat. Remove the pan when the dough has thickened. Let it cool down slightly and add flour until you get a dough.

Storage: Place it in a jar that can be closed with a lid.

Edible Play Dough

You will need two glasses of cacao, six tablespoons of honey, one glass on skim milk in powder and a bit of flour. Put the cacao, and honey in a bowl and mix them. Add the powdered milk and flour until you have a cookie-like dough. Mold the dough and decorate with sprinkles or jelly beans.

Play Dough with Glycerine

You will need three glasses of wheat flour, a glass of salt, a glass of cold water, a tablespoon of glycerin.

Mix all the ingredients together until you achieve an elastic consistency. You can add more water if needed. This one is great for modeling. And if you want to keep the artworks of your child, you can bake the creations in a preheated oven at about 150 degrees. The time will depend on the shape of the pieces. If they are flat, an hour and a half will be enough. If they are three-dimensional, you will need about two hours or more.

Once they are dried, you can even paint or varnished them.

There you are! What other kids’ craft do you know and did you do before? Tell us all about it in the comments below.

3 Steps to Assemble a Knitted Fabric

3 Steps to Assemble a Knitted Fabric

3 Steps to Assemble a Knitted Fabric

 

Contents

Step 1: Gather the materials to assemble a knitted fabric

Step 2: Prepare the knitting pieces to be assembled

Step 3: Joining a knitted fabric: 2 methods of sewing

Method 1: Joining a knitted fabric in backstitch

Method 2: Joining a knitted fabric with blind stitching

Joining a knitted fabric is necessary to assemble a flat knitted fabric with straight needles after folding down the stitches and bringing in the threads.

Several types of seams join a knitted fabric depending on the stitch used to knit the fabric.

Here are some tips on how to sew a knitted fabric together.

1. Gather the material to assemble a knitted fabric

Before assembling a knitted fabric, it is necessary to prepare the knitted pieces so that they are flat to facilitate the assembly of the garment and thus obtain beautiful finishes.

To carry out these steps, gather all the necessary materials to complete the assembly:

a tape measure to measure the knitted pieces to make sure they match the pattern dimensions;

sewing pins to tighten the knitted fabric;

a foam plate or special support to stretch the knitted fabric (there are plates with squares to use as markers for the measurements);

white cotton cloth for ironing with the pattemouille.

Important: look at the label of the balls to see if the wool used can be ironed so as not to damage the knitting. Do not iron on thick stitches such as ribbing or rice stitch, as the edges will not roll.

2. Prepare the knitted pieces to be joined

Stretch the knitted pieces

Moisten the pieces with a spray bottle or wash them by hand beforehand by wringing them out between two towels without twisting them.

Stretch the wet pieces on the backing with the wrong side facing you, flat.

Prick pins into the knitwear, first at the corners and then along the rest of the knitwear, spacing the pins about 3 cm apart.

Measure the piece to ensure the dimensions are the same as the pattern.

You can adjust the dimensions by pinning the parts of the knitted fabric.

Note: If you cannot iron the wool, stop at this step and let the pieces air dry before assembling.

Iron the knit pieces

Iron each piece of knitwear that has already been pinned if the wool allows it and if the edges roll heavily using a pattern.

To do this, dampen a white cotton cloth with cold water.

Wring it out and place it on the knitted fabric.

Set the iron to the program recommended on the label.

Carefully iron over the damp cloth without letting the iron rest. It will only take a few seconds to see the result.

Remove the cloth and let the knitted pieces dry before removing the pins.

Note: you can also steam iron all the pieces to be assembled by positioning the iron 3 cm from the knitting.

3. Assembling a knitted fabric: 2 sewing methods

3 Steps to Assemble a Knitted Fabric

It is necessary to use a wool needle and a wool thread identical to the knitted fabric. Prefer a wool or tapestry needle with a large eye to facilitate the passage of the thread during assembly. Several seams exist to assemble a knitted fabric:

the backstitch seam;

the invisible seam.

Take care of the assembly by making flat or invisible seams according to the knitted fabric assembled.

Method 1: Joining a knitted fabric with a backstitch

The backstitch seam is widely used in knitting because it is a simple seam to make and very strong. You can use it to sew the shoulders or sleeves of a sweater.

Place the two parts to be sewn together, right sides together. Pin if necessary.

Hold the knitted fabric in your left hand, placing your fingers on the part to be sewn as you go.

Thread a large eye needle with the same wool thread as the knitting. If the thread is too thick, use a split thread.

Stitch the needle under the two parts to be joined and bring the needle out to the front, one stitch from the edge.

Stitch the needle at the back into the previous stitch.

Bring the wool needle out in the next stitch, stitching under the two joined parts. Use your index finger to help you do this.

Pull on the thread, being careful not to overtighten the first stitch.

Repeat steps 5 to 7 until the end of the part to be joined. Always stitch through the previous stitch and the next one to repeat the back stitch to create an even stitch.

Stop the seam by passing the thread through the last stitch.

Tuck in any protruding seam threads.

Note: bring a round-ended wool needle so you can sew without pricking your fingers!

Method 2: Blindstitch a knitted fabric

Blindstitching is used to hide unavoidable seams such as the sides of a sweater, armholes, and raglans but can be used on other simpler pieces, such as snoods. Blindstitching is done differently depending on the type of knit stitch used.

On foam stitch

Place the pieces of knit fabric to be joined edge to edge, right sides together. Pin if necessary.

Thread a needle with a wool thread identical to the knitted piece.

Insert the needle into the first two stitches of the parts to be joined. Leave at least 20 cm of thread to stop the work at the end of the seam.

Insert the needle where the selvage stitch loops, through both loops, first the right and then the left.

Then stitch through the next two loops on each side again.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you have completed the two pieces of knitting.

Stop the seam by stitching the needle back through the two loops of the selvage stitches.

Tuck in any protruding seam threads.

On stockinette stitch

Place the pieces to be joined edge to edge, right sides together.

Thread a needle with a wool thread identical to the knitting.

Pass the thread through a stitch at the edge of the knitted fabric on the right, leaving a length of 20 cm to stop the work at the end of the assembly and correct any sewing errors.

Stitch one stitch from the edge under the thread that is between two right sides on the left.

Then stitch one from the edge under the thread between the two right-hand stitches, at the same stitch height on each side. Make the stitches reasonably loose.

Repeat these steps for a few rows, and gently pull the thread to tighten the stitches together and hide the seam.

Do the same throughout the assembly.

Stop the seam and pull the threads in.

Note: practice making an invisible seam with a different color thread before you finally join a knit.

On a ribbed stitch

Place the pieces to be joined right sides together. Hold them in your left hand to make joining easier.

Thread a needle with the same yarn as the knitted piece.

Stitch one stitch from the edge under both strands of the selvage stitches, leaving a length of yarn to stop the seam and tuck in any protruding threads.

Stitch under the following two strands, one stitch from the edge, from front to back.

Repeat this action, but the seam is zigzagged from the back to the front.

Sew the entire piece of knitting to be joined in the same way.

Stop the seam by passing the thread under a stitch and pulling them in.

Upholster an Armchair

5 Steps to Upholster an Armchair

5 Steps to Upholster an Armchair

 

Contents

Focus on upholstery

Step 1: Distribute the upholstery

Step 2: Position the upholstery

Step 3: Cover the cut-out holes with batting and cotton wool

Step 4: Place the first button for the chair upholstery

Step 5: Finish upholstering the chair

Upholstering takes time, patience, materials – although some tools can be replaced with those you already have – and careful fabric preparation. Whatever the seat or chair, the technique is always the same, knowing there is a great deal of trial and error and adjustment throughout the work.

Here is how to upholster a chair.

Upholstery differs from buttoning in that it is made of hollows and solids, even without buttons, with a fold in the fabric. In contrast, buttoning is achieved by attaching buttons to the decorative material, which returns to its original shape if the buttons are removed.

Whatever type of chair you want to upholster:

  • check that the structure and upholstery are in good condition, as the upholstery is made on the (white) fabric underneath the decorative fabric;
  • clear the work area:
  • either by removing the special upholstery fabric – a thin fabric under the chair to protect it from dust – if you are upholstering a seat;
  • Or remove the decorative fabric from the back if you are upholstering the back.

Good to know: if the back of the chair is covered with a one-piece fabric, removing a large part of it is challenging to make the upholstery… unless you agree to change it completely.

1. Distribute the pads

The number of buttons – and their location – depends on the surface and the aesthetic aspect you want to obtain. However, keeping a distance of at least 15 cm between each button is advisable, bearing in mind that the first button can be 10 cm from the outer frame or 3 cm or even 3.5 cm from the bowl.

The seam on the outer edge is called a “trough” and can be felt under the white fabric.

There are no rules about the number of buttons and the distance between them, but the size of the chair plays a decisive role: the larger the chair, the greater the distance between the buttons, and the larger the buttons can be.

You can make a scale drawing of the upholstery on your computer or on kraft paper, which will give you a better idea of the number of buttons and their distribution on the fabric.

Good to know: you can have your buttons covered or do it yourself; haberdashery has kits for this.

2. Position the pads

Use tapestry pins, a ruler and a felt-tip pen to position the pads, i.e. the bulging parts.

Starting at the bottom left of the fabric, measure the location of the buttons with a ruler.

Work row by row and from left to right, placing a pin where a button will come, knowing that all buttons will be staggered and equidistant.

Make sure that all the pins come in precisely the right place.

Then replace each pin with a cross drawn with a magic marker or make a cross stitch with a needle and coloured thread.

Good to know: the usually pink magic marker fades after a while.

Cut each cross, starting from the heart, with a pair of sharp scissors.

3. Cover the cut-out holes with batting and cotton wool

The batting is used to hold the batting in place, and both allow the finishing fabric to sink into the layers with the button for comfort and beauty.

Cut a piece of batting to the size of the area to be covered.

Cut a piece of cotton wool 4 cm larger in length and width.

Place the fleece and cotton wool on the white fabric and pin them together at the edges with tapestry pins.

Tip: on a backrest, it is necessary to support the top edge with small 10 mm wide-headed nails (upholstery seeds).

Use the ruler and your measurements to ensure accuracy.

Spread the two layers horizontally by about 2 cm at each hole.

While holding the tape measure, put your thumbs in the centre of the gap between 2 openings on the first row, and note the measurement.

Do the same for the second row, and repeat for all the rows on the chair, from the centre of the hole to the centre of the next hole.

Each time, the measurement should be almost the same: this distance you get between the buttons is larger than the original measurement, which you don’t have to take into account anymore.

4. Place the first button for the upholstery of the chair

Upholster an Armchair

Upholstery is made on the decorative fabric with quilting twine, that is, thick linen thread. Using a synthetic thread and a 2-pointed square of 30 cm or more is also possible.

Cut lengths of the thread of about 60 cm; allow for as many as you have buttons.

Measure and cut as many pieces of webbing as you need about 2.5 cm.

Lay the finishing fabric to cover the chair.

Thread the string through a button, then thread both strands through the eye of the square at the same time.

Place the first button in the middle of the first row (at the top), stitching the square through all the layers at the hole made under the fabric.

Tip: Touch the cover fabric to mark.

While holding the tile straight up, slide your other hand under all the layers to retrieve and pull it and the string.

Release the string from the frame and pull it out: the button remains on top.

Turn the chair over so the string is facing you.

Make a noose:

Form a loop with the end of the string by holding the 2 strands between your thumb and forefinger where they meet; you have the shorter strand on the left or right, depending on your hand.

Still holding the two strands, pass the free end around the base of the loop: the string then wraps around your thumb.

Bring the free end back through the loop, towards the front, making a second turn.

Then pass the string through the two previous turns, from top to bottom.

Fold a small piece of webbing over itself and pass it through the loop of the noose.

Tighten the noose on the webbing, and at the same time, push the button to the desired depth.

Place all the other buttons in the row on either side of this first button.

5. Finish the upholstery of the chair

For the second row, the one underneath also starts in the middle.

Form the folds as you go along, between each pad, making sure they are always facing the same direction.

When the pads are finished, check that all the buttons are at the same depth: if necessary, tighten or loosen the slipknots.

Then form all the folds of the outer cushions, always in the same direction, before folding the fabric under the seat (or behind the backrest) and securing it to the wooden frame with 13 mm seeds.

Tie 3 single tight knots for each strand of string holding the buttons.

Cut the string leaving 1 cm.

Place or rest a unique upholstery fabric under the chair with 13 mm seeds.

Hide the seeds around the edge of the chair with a braid, piping, etc., if necessary.

Tip: Turn the vertical folds downwards for the backrest to avoid dust retention.

Materials needed to upholster a chair.

Sewing needle

Straight two-pointed trowel

Dressmaker’s scissors

Felt

Sewing thread

Household items

Tape measure

Paper + pencil

Ruler

How to Knit in the Round

How to Knit in the Round

How to Knit in the Round

Contents

Step 1: Knit in the round with double-pointed needles

Step 2: Knit the following stitches and start a second row

Additional tips for knitting in the round

 

Knitting in the round or circular allows you to knit seamless round pieces such as snoods, hats, or mittens. You can knit in the round with circular needles or with double-pointed needles:

Double point needles are mainly used for knitting small items like socks. Depending on the size of the work, 4 or 5 needles are used, but the basic principle remains the same.

The circular needles allow you to knit works in circles of different sizes like sweaters and are practical because you can slip them into a bag and take them everywhere.

Here’s how to knit in the round with 4 double-pointed needles.

1. Knit in the round with double point needles

How to Knit in the Round

Place the desired number of stitches on one of the double-point needles, making sure to use an even number to divide them evenly among three needles, forming a triangle.

Place the needle with the first stitch mounted on it facing you at the bottom and the one with the yarn connected to the ball on the right, as shown in the photo. The third needle is on the left above the others and contains the center stitches. You want all the stitches to be in the same direction and not twisted.

Prick the fourth needle into the first stitch and hold the yarn firmly connected to the ball. At the same time, keep the other needles in your left hand. Knit the first stitch right side up, pulling the yarn tightly to avoid creating a gap.

Knit the second stitch tightly and incorporate the following stitches normally until the needle comes free.

Turn your work slightly to the left so that the yarn connected to the ball is on the right and the knitting needle stitches are facing you.

2. Knit the following stitches and start a second row

Knit the next stitches on each needle by repeating steps 2 to 4 of step 1 until all stitches are knitted. Note that the yarn connected to the ball should always be at the bottom right of the round work.

The first row is finished when all stitches from all three needles are knitted.

Mark the beginning of the row by slipping a stitch marker or contrasting yarn just before the first stitch to continue knitting in the round.

Note: Remember to knit the first two stitches on each needle, pulling the yarn tightly to avoid demarcation.

Additional tips for knitting in the round

How to Knit in the Round

Pay attention to the arrangement of the stitches on the needles

Ensure that the stitches you are knitting are not twisted on each needle; they must all be in the same direction before winding them. You risk getting a knitted fabric turned inside out if they are intertwined. Place the base of the stitches down like the stitches on straight needles.

Marking the beginning of a row in the round knitting

To mark the beginning of a row, you can use a stitch marker or a different color yarn than the one you are knitting with. You will only need to slide the marker over the needle at each row change to find your way around. Place it when all the set-up stitches are knitted before the first stitch of the next row.

Knowing how to knit the different stitches

To knit in stockinette, you must always knit in right side stitches because you are working only on the right side of the work.

To knit in moss stitch, you will need to wind one row right side up and then one row in reverse, repeating these two rows throughout the work.

To knit in 1/1 ribbing, you will have to knit one stitch from the front and one from the back, always on the side of the work.

Avoiding the divisions in the round knitting

When knitting the first two stitches on each needle, tighten the yarn to avoid demarcation. Note that not all wools show divisions. This method is equally applicable to knitting in the round with circular needles, which will be the subject of our following publication. Meanwhile, don’t forget to tell us about your experience in the comments section below.

Read more:

 

Practical Tips To Revive Your Old Wooden Pallets

Pallets are used to facilitate the transport and storage of goods. They are becoming the most popular material for making furniture in DIY activities. The boards present in them are recovered to build new objects or be used directly as decoration and furniture for your interior and exterior spaces. Indeed, recycling, recovery, and reusing objects or materials are no longer marginal solutions in our society, starting with increasingly expensive wood. Do you have damaged or useless pallets at home? The right thing to do is not to throw them away in a landfill because they are ideal raw materials for making functional and artistic objects. So, we suggest the following tips to give them a new life.

A Living Room for the Garden

As the weather is pleasant during summer, you can enjoy the sun outside the house or in your green space. So, setting up a garden lounge will allow you to do just that. Your old pallets are at your disposal to make authentic and stylish chairs and tables. To do this, clean your pallets well. So, in the end, you can leave your raw furniture without colour. However, if you want to paint it, this will allow you not to use too much paint. Then, proceed with the assembly. For a good fixation, opt for a stainless steel screw that is long and thick enough for your living room to last over time. Do not use glue because the furniture will be exposed to the weather and the climate, and it may melt or damage quickly. To make a chair, layout at least 3 pallets. Indeed, to install garden furniture, you must have many them. Otherwise, you can use planks in case you don’t have enough.

70 cool wood pallet ideas for the home and garden | loveproperty.com

A Bed Base

The trick to having an affordable bed base is to make it yourself from your old wooden pallets. For a 160 cm bed, two pallets are enough. But if you want yours to be not too low, you can add 2 more. Start by cleaning them, use a vacuum cleaner to make dusting easier. Then, attach the pallets with wood glue or nails. You can paint them according to your taste to give a more aesthetic look. This allows you to have a very original, stylish, and personalized bed frame. This means that the recycling of pallets enables you to acquire new beautiful furniture without spending much money.

DIY Pallet Bed Frame Guide and Video Tutorial

A Corner Sofa

Use your old pallets to make a corner sofa to accompany your new coffee table. To do this, position two pallets lengthwise and one widthwise. Tie them together. Add wooden or metal legs about 30 cm below each corner to make it a little higher. You can also create an armrest from another pallet divided in half and a wooden board. Know that pallet furniture is always an original and mainly aesthetic value.

Shelves

With pallets, you can make dozens of different shelves. Start by detaching the boards from the pallet and then sand them down. Take 6 or 8 of them, as you wish, and arrange the boards according to your taste. Attach the panels vertically and horizontally with nails or wood glue. If you are a bit of a handyman, you can decorate your shelves according to your inspiration and wish. Besides the shelves, you can also make shoe storage in your room or a small place for your pet.

Easy DIY Pallet Shelves - Six Clever Sisters

Fabric Baby Blanket

How to Make a Fabric Baby Blanket

How to Make a Fabric Baby Blanket

Contents

 – Focus on comforters

 – Step 1: Choose the fabrics to make a comforter

 – Step 2: Prepare the body of the blanket

 – Step 3: Make the face of the blanket

 – Step 4: Create the cuddly toy’s ears

 – Step 5: Add the blanket’s arms, tail, and legs

 – Step 6: Assemble the blanket

 – Step 7: Finish the blanket

Why not create a blanket for your baby? It’s quick and easy to sew, and you can give way to your imagination according to your desires and those of your little ones! It will be a cute and playful little blanket that will delight your child or make a nice gift for a mother-to-be…

Here is how to make a fabric baby blanket.

Focus on comforters

There are not one but thousands of shapes of soft toys. Everything is possible to make a comforter, from a glove or a transformed sock to a real homemade plush. That’s why we have chosen to present you with a simple comforter model, easy to make but infinitely customizable.

It is made with a square of stuffed fabric, like a small cushion. To personalize it, you can play on several elements:

 – the fabric of the square cushion forming the body;

 – eyes, a beak, a snout, a mouth to apply or glue on this body;

 – ears or horns to add to the head;

 – legs or arms to add on the sides;

 – legs, legs, and tail to be added at the bottom.

1. Choose fabrics to make a comforter

A comforter should be, as the name suggests, soft. It must also resist the pulls imposed by the little ones and therefore have a minimum of elasticity. Finally, it must be washable to simplify the life of parents. To choose your fabric, touch, pull and read the label!

 – Lightweight fleece: soft and fluffy, it is the favorite of children for its extreme softness. It is solid, washable, and easy to sew.

 Fleece is also ideal for a soft and comfortable comforter; you can use it to recycle old sweatshirts or jogging suits (well washed beforehand!); it is also stretchy and easy to sew.

 – Jersey: soft and stretchy, you can use it to recycle old T-shirts; it is thinner and less easy to sew than other fabrics.

 – Cotton velvet: equally soft but more elegant; it is less stretchy and more fragile. It is also less easy to find or considered for luxury comforters.

 – Fake fur: soft and fun; you can use it to create stuffed animals like bears or monsters. Be careful, in this case, with the quality and treatments of the fur. Ensure it doesn’t shed and avoid it for toddlers, who may put it in their mouths and swallow hair.

 – Cotton: if you want to make a comforter that is more decorative than manipulative, there is nothing to stop you from mixing simple printed kinds of cotton or even other non-stretchy fabrics.

Tip: use fabrics that match the pajamas or favorite outfit of the child for whom the comforter is intended!

2. Prepare the body of the comforter

The body of the comforter is a small square pillow. To prepare it, cut out 2 squares of the same size from the chosen fabric, adding the seam values. For a small comforter that is easy to sew and carry, start with a 15 × 15 cm square, adding 1 cm of seam allowance all around.

Later, you can change the dimensions to suit your inspiration with more oversized, rectangular, or even rounded comforters. The method will remain the same.

3. Make the face of the comforter

Fabric Baby Blanket

Lay a square of fabric representing the body of the comforter flat, right side up. Think of it as the body of your blanket: the top half of the square is the head, the bottom half is the trunk. Now decorate!

Important: when placing the face elements, do not forget to respect the sewing values. Place the parts at least 1 cm from the edge or ideally 2 cm.

Use felt

 – Use small pieces of felt to form the “features” of the face: two circles for the eyes, a triangle for the nose, an oval for the mouth…

 – Cut them out directly and place them on the top half of the square until you are satisfied with the result.

 – Sew them by hand or machine with a small straight stitch. You can also use textile glue, but they are generally less strong and contain many chemicals.

Opt for felts

 – Choose washable textile markers. Remember to bring a light-colored comforter; otherwise, the lines will remain invisible.

 – Before drawing, try out a square of paper the same size as the comforter’s body until you get a satisfactory result.

 – Reproduce the drawing with chalk on the square of fabric, then iron on it with a textile marker as many times as necessary for a well-visible line.

Make embroidery

 Proceed with felt pens, drawing with a pencil on paper before transferring the design to the fabric.

 – Then embroider according to the lines by hand or machine, with the embroidery stitch of your choice, or even straight stitch.

Some examples

 – the owl: two white circles, a half-circle embroidered or drawn inside for the eyes, and a yellow triangle pointing down for the beak;

 – the pig: two embroidered or drawn eyes and a white or flesh circle applied underneath, in the center, with two points drawing the nostrils for the snout;

 – bear: two drawn eyes (or two white circles with applied eyes if you are using a fur body), a rounded white rectangle for the muzzle, a long black oval applied to it for the nose, and a smile drawn under the nose.

Tip: You can also mix techniques. Apply two rounds of felt for the eyes, embroider a pupil on top, then draw a mouth, for example. Avoid using sewn buttons, embossed paints, glued glitter, or any other small objects that could come apart and be swallowed by the children.

4. Create the blanket’s ears

Depending on the blanket you choose to make, add ears or horns:

 – Experiment with paper shapes: triangles for a cat, rounds for a bear, long ovals for a rabbit…

 – Lay them on the top edge to choose the right size and placement.

 – When you are satisfied, mark the locations on the square of fabric forming the body to find them: draw a line on each side of each ear or horn, on the centimeter of seam value, using chalk, pen, or felt pen.

 – Then, cut this shape out of the fabric of your choice:

 ◦ in felt: cut out the shape twice (once for each ear or horn), adding 1 cm of seam values at the base of the ear only.

 ◦ Fabric:

  • Cut out the shape four times (twice for each ear or horn), adding 1 cm of seam values all around.
  • Place two pieces right sides together, then straight stitch 1 cm from the edge, leaving the base open.
  • Trim along the seams to leave only a few millimeters, then turn over.
  • Fill the ear or horn with a bit of absorbent cotton, then do the same with the second.

5. Add the arms, tail, and legs of the comforter

Proceed exactly as for the ears:

 – The arms, wings, or legs go on each side of the body. The legs or paws are on the bottom. If you want one, the tail between or under the two legs.

 – Prepare the shapes, then mark the locations on the sides and bottom of the body fabric square to find them.

 – Assemble and fill in each part as needed.

Good to know: no need to make complicated shapes if you are just starting. Use half circles or rounded rectangles, for example, to symbolize arms, legs, wings, legs, tail…

6. Assemble the comforter

Prepare the different elements.

 – Place all the external parts of the comforter (ears, arms, legs, tail…) on the square of fabric forming the body of the comforter, on their marks, as before.

 – Fold each one towards the inside of the square in a mirror image: the base of the ears should be aligned with the top edge, the base of the arms with the edges of the sides, the base of the legs and tail with the bottom edge. All the pieces end up on the fabric square.

 – Pin each piece in place.

 – Place the second fabric square on top of the first, right sides together.

 – Pin edge to edge, so all the outer parts (ears, arms, legs, tail…) are enclosed inside.

Sew the comforter

 – Stitch all around the square, along the edges, leaving an opening of about 5 cm. Plan this opening in a place without an outer part: between two legs, for example, or on a side without legs.

 – Finish with a stop stitch.

 – Turn the comforter over gently and fill it with absorbent cotton.

– Fold the edges of the opening inward and close it by hand with a tiny stitch.

7. Proceed to the finishing touches of the comforter

 – Add a personalized label to mark your creations.

 – Embroider the child’s name on the back.

 – Add bells or other charms to the inside of the comforter if you want it to make noise. For moms who have worn a pregnancy bola, slip it inside as well; the sound of the comforter will reassure newborns.

 – Tie a strip of fabric around the comforter to make a sling.

countertop

How to Install Your Countertop

Contents

    – Step 1: Prepare to install the countertop

    – Step 2: Cut out the countertop

    – Step 3: Installing the countertop

    – Step 4: Finishing

As the centerpiece of a kitchen, the countertop is now as decorative as it is functional. Of a very different nature, you can easily install it without special tools.

Depending on the material (wood, marble or granite, reconstituted stone…) that composes it, the cuts will have to be subcontracted to a professional with the appropriate cutting tools.

Here are some tips on how to install a countertop at home.

1. Prepare the installation of the countertop

The installation of a countertop must be rigorously horizontal, and this is why it is essential to check the flatness of the assembled furniture.

To do this, you can use a large aluminum mason’s rule. The advantage of these rulers is that they are dimensionally stable (under normal conditions of use). To check the flatness, proceed as follows:

    – Place the mason’s rule over the kitchen base units.

    – Place the spirit level and check for levelness.

    – If the bubble is not between the 2 lines of the level indicating that the surface is flat, adjust the height of the furniture concerned by screwing or unscrewing the furniture legs until perfect flatness is achieved.

    – Make sure that all furniture is securely fastened together and that no movement is possible.

2. Cut out the countertop

Before placing the countertop on the kitchen furniture, you must cut it to the correct length.

If you place the countertop in a corner, check that the intersection is at 90° using the square. To cut the countertop, here are the right steps:

    – Measure the length of the countertop.

    – Place the work surface on stable support: table, trestle… without turning it over!

    – Transfer the measured length to the work surface.

    – Cut the work surface with a jigsaw with a reversed blade.

3. Lay the work surface

countertop

You must now place the countertop on the furniture. Fasten the countertop with screws through the top of the furniture:

    – Drill holes in the elements with a drill every 50 cm.

    – Place the countertop on the furniture.

    – Fasten the countertop to the furniture by screwing from underneath at the drilled locations.

4. Finishing

    – Cut an edge strip the width of the countertop.

    – Glue the edge strip with an iron if it can be thermo-glued; otherwise, use contact glue such as neoprene-based glue. Apply this glue to the edge and the edge of the countertop.

    – File by pressing lightly on the edges.

    – Then, apply a special kitchen silicone sealant or a brushed aluminum profile strip to the back of the countertop.

Materials required for the installation of a countertop

Aluminum ruler 2 m About $15
Spirit level Starting at $4
Phillips screwdriver Starting at $3
Jigsaw Starting at $30
Reverse blade for jigsaw $10 approx.
Iron Starting at about $40
Drill Starting at $30
Trestles $7 for 2
Pencil $0,50
File Starting at $5
Neoprene glue Starting at $5

Read more:

How Do You Fix a Quartz Countertop;

Quartz Countertops: The Key Benefits!

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel;

7 Good Reasons to Start Doing Crafts;

4 Easy Tips Every DIY Enthusiast Should Know!

4 Important Tips for DIY Beginners;

The 7 Top Safety Precautions for DIY;

5 Steps to Driving a Nail Like a Pro;

3 Easy Steps for Making a Scrub With Baking Soda;

2 Important Steps on How to Paint a Window;

7 Important Steps to Install Wallpaper.

Hope this post will help you install your countertop. Remember to share and comment!