DIY Coffee Scrub To Fade Stretch Marks

As you make healthy and positive changes to the way your body looks and feels, it only makes sense that you might want to improve the appearance of your body’s largest organ: your skin.

Stretch marks, also called striae or striae distensae, happen when your skin changes shape rapidly due to growth or weight gain. They are not a sign that anything is wrong with your health.

Both men and women can get stretch marks as pregnancy and puberty are the two most common times in life for these to appear.

Stretch marks begin as reddish or purple lesions which can appear anywhere on the body but are most likely to occur in places where larger amounts of fats are stored; the most common areas are the abdomen, breasts, upper arms, underarms, back, thighs and hips. Eventually, most stretch marks fade and take on a lighter coloring.

This DIY fading scrub has two simple everyday ingredients that are probably already in your kitchen. Coffee has been gaining ground for its beneficial skincare properties. Like any treatment, it takes time to see results, so be patient. As a bonus, if you use this scrub in the morning, the aroma of the coffee will make you up and start your day strong.

The Ingredients & Why They Work

Ground Coffee

Page 13 | Royalty-free brown coffee beans photos free download | Pxfuel

You have two choices when it comes to using ground coffee. You can take it directly from the package or repurpose the used coffee grounds from your coffee machine. Either way, the caffeine in coffee stimulates blood flow and circulation when directly applied to the skin, improving cell regeneration. This ground coffee’s texture is also an exfoliant, removing dead cells and loose skin. This process allows new skin cells to receive proper moisture from the next ingredient.

Olive Oil

Olive oil is capable of penetrating the skin to work on the different layers of your epidermis. Since stretch marks are located beneath the surface of our skin’s outer layers, olive oil works wonders to get to the location of the actual skin damage.

How to Use:

For the best results, start with clean skin. If you are using spent coffee grounds from the machine, you are good to go and can skip the first step. Otherwise, start with step one and move on from there.

  • Prepare the Coffee

If you are using coffee straight from the package, you will want to moisten the coffee first. Pour about ½ cup of coffee grounds into a large bowl and moisten it with warm water. You don’t want to drown the grounds, but you do want them to be wet.

  • Create a Paste

Add olive oil to the bowl with coffee and stir the mixture until it has a paste-like consistency. This should take anywhere from ¼ to ½ cup of oil, depending on how moist the grounds are. Ideally, the ending mixture should produce a paste that can stay on your skin for an extended period of time.

  • Rub It Into Your Skin

Once the paste is ready, gently rub it into the area where the stretch marks are present. Apply it on the skin around the area too, as stretch marks extend past the area we can see. If the stretch mark is the size of a golf ball, apply to the area as if it were a tennis ball. Continue to rub it in light, gentle strokes for 3 to 5 minutes.

  • Let It Sit

Once the paste is applied, leave it on for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, use a damp, non-abrasive cloth to remove the mixture from your skin gently.

  • Moisturize

After removing the paste, apply a natural moisturizer to the affected area two to three times throughout the day.

  • Repeat

Repeat the process once a day until you see a noticeable difference in the area. Everyone’s skin is different, and some stretch marks are more severe than others. Fading can take longer than you anticipate but be patient. It will work over time.

 

If you don’t feel like making the scrub daily, you can place the paste in an air-tight container and store it at room temperature. It will be ready to use whenever you are ready.

In the comment section below, let us know if you have ever used a stretch mark remedy and if it worked for you.

The Crafts Person | 3 Easy Steps for Making a Scrub With Baking Soda

The Crafts Person | 3 Easy Steps for Making a Scrub With Baking Soda

The Crafts Person | 3 Easy Steps for Making a Scrub With Baking Soda

Summary

   – Step 1: Make an ultra-simple baking soda scrub

   – Step 2: Mix the scrub in the palm of your hand

   – Step 3: Nourishing Baking Soda Scrub

The Crafts Person | 3 Easy Steps for Making a Scrub With Baking Soda

Facial scrubs should usually be very gentle so as not to damage the sensitive skin in this area. However, it is sometimes necessary to use a slightly more abrasive scrub for combination to oily skin. For this, a baking soda scrub is a very effective home solution.

Warning: do not confuse baking soda with caustic soda, which is very corrosive.

1. Make an ultra-simple scrub with baking soda.

The Crafts Person | 3 Easy Steps for Making a Scrub With Baking Soda

The suggested baking soda scrub is suitable for both combination and oily skin. However, it is not recommended for the most fragile skins or those likely to present allergic reactions.

Its composition is straightforward since it requires only two ingredients: baking soda, naturally exfoliating, and water.

Preparation

   – Put 2 tablespoons of baking soda in a bowl.

   – Add 1 teaspoon of water.

   – Mix until you get a kind of paste (adjust the proportions according to the result).

Use

   – Lightly moisten the area you are about to apply the scrub to (which must be washed beforehand).

   – Apply the paste obtained directly to the area to be scrubbed with the fingertips in small, very gentle circles (bicarbonate is quite abrasive).

   – Let it rest for about ten minutes.

   – Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.

   – Dry your face with a clean towel.

   – Finish with a moisturizer.

Note: You should not use this scrub more than once a week.

2. Mix the scrub in the palm of your hand

Using the same ingredients, you can opt for a second method that may suit you. This is because the technique of preparing the mixture in a bowl can be more challenging to handle the first few times and can run over areas that are best avoided (the eyes in particular).

This time, you will not mix the bicarbonate and water in a container but apply directly to the hand.

Here is how to proceed:

   – Wet the palm of your hand (right hand if you are right-handed or left hand for left-handed people).

   – Put a few pinches of baking soda in the wet hand.

   – Apply to the chosen area in circular motions without applying too much pressure.

   When the mixture is on the skin, and you have no more in your hand, re-wet your hand, put some more bicarbonate, and continue its application.

   – Let it sit for about 10 minutes and then rinse.

   – Again, finish by applying a moisturizer.

This technique makes it easier to dose the water.

Good to know: with this application method, you can use this scrub on the body during the shower.

3. Nourishing scrub with baking soda

Nothing could be easier than turning your baking soda scrub into a nourishing scrub. All you have to do is replace the water in the preparation with vegetable oil.

The ideal is to use particularly nourishing oils such as

   – sweet almond oil;

   – argan oil;

   – avocado oil;

   – jojoba oil;

   – sesame oil;

   – etc.

Materials needed to make a baking soda scrub.

Sodium bicarbonate
Bowl
Moisturizing cream
Towel

Remember to share your experience in the comments below!

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3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

7 Good Reasons to Start Doing Crafts

4 Easy Tips Every DIY Enthusiast Should Know!

4 Important Tips for DIY Beginners

The 7 Top Safety Precautions for DIY

5 Steps to Driving a Nail Like a Pro

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

Contents

    – Step 1: Make an invigorating shower gel

    – Step 2: Make a relaxing body wash

    – Step 3: Make a shower gel for sensitive skin

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

Conventional shower gels contain a lot of chemicals that are harmful to your skin and the environment. Yet, there are simple recipes to make natural shower gels yourself, with elements that respect nature. So have fun testing and developing the recipes that suit you best.

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1. Make an invigorating shower gel

Aleppo soap
Aleppo soap

In the morning, the shower should give us the energy we need to face the day. For a tonic wake up, you will need :

    – 50 g of Aleppo soap: this is a natural soap made from olive oil and laurel that is hypoallergenic and suitable for all skin types;

    – 1 liter of water;

    – 5 drops of essential oil of peppermint: it is tonic and stimulating;

    – 5 drops of essential oil of black spruce: it is very effective in case of fatigue;

    – 2 tablespoons of vegetable glycerin: it will moisturize the skin and bring smoothness to the shower gel (in organic stores or pharmacies);

    – 2 drops of vitamin E: it will be used as conservative (in pharmacy).

It will help if you prepare your shower gel in the kitchen. This mixture does not foam but cleans the skin perfectly.

    1. Grate the soap and heat the water and soap in a large pan at a very low flame for about 15 minutes.

    2. Stir until soap is dissolved.

    3. Add the essential oils.

    4. Let cool for 1 hour.

    5. Add glycerin and vitamin E.

Good to know: you can add a little water if the mixture seems too thick. You can keep it for about 2 months.

2. Make a soothing shower gel

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel
3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel

After a stressful day, it’s always nice to take a shower to unwind and release the tensions accumulated during the day. For a relaxing shower gel, you will need:

    – 150 ml of unscented liquid Castile soap: it is made from olive oil and is very gentle on the skin;

    – 60 ml of honey: ideal for its softening virtues and its perfume;

    – 20 ml of macadamia vegetable oil: it has softening, nourishing, and soothing properties and leaves the skin soft and silky;

    – 10 drops of essential oil of lavandin: it has calming, relaxing, and sedative;

    – 10 drops of essential oil of petitgrain bigarade: it is relaxing and sedative;

    – 4 drops of vitamin E: it will serve as a preservative (in pharmacy).

The manufacture of this soothing shower gel is straightforward.

    1. Mix the soap and the honey.

    2. Add the vegetable oil as well as the essential oils.

    3. Pour this mixture into a shower gel bottle or an empty bottle.

    4. Shake before each use.

Good to know: the shower gel is to be used in the 12 months following its manufacture.

3. Make a shower gel for sensitive skin

3 DIY Tips for Making a Natural Shower Gel
Sensitive skin

Body skin can be fragile and have areas of dryness or eczema. For this gentle recipe for the most demanding skin, you will need:

    – 50 g of aloe vera gel: it will soothe inflammation and itching;

    – 30 ml of vegetable oil of calendula: it calms the cutaneous irritations;

    – 4 drops of essential oil of palmarosa: it is very effective in the event of eczema;

    3 drops of solubol will allow dispersing the vegetable oils and the essential oils in the aqueous mixture that is the aloe vera gel.

Mix all these ingredients, pouring the aloe vera gel last. Pour this mixture into a bottle and shake.

Good to know: for pregnant women, remove the essential oils from the recipes. Do not forget to disinfect the equipment with alcohol before preparing the mixtures.

Equipment needed to make your natural shower gel.

Aleppo soap
Aleppo soap
Bowl From your kitchen
Saucepan From your kitchen
Bottle $1
Aloe vera gel About $9
Glycerin About $6 per 500 ml
Vegetable oil About $7 per 50 mL
Essential oils From $3 per 10 ml
Honey From $5 to $25 per 300 g depending on the type
Aleppo Soap Starting at $3

Hope this post will help you. Remember to share your experience below.

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4 Easy Tips Every DIY Enthusiast Should Know!

 

How to Paint a Window

2 Important Steps on How to Paint a Window

2 Important Steps on How to Paint a Window

 Contents

 – Before you start…

 – Step 1: Prepare the surface

 – Step 2: Case 1: Apply paint to a swinging window

 – Step 2: Case 2: Painting a sliding window

 Repainting a window can protect a new frame, change the decoration or renovate an old opening.

 It is possible to paint wood and aluminum windows, provided that the coating is adapted to the material. Many types of paints are available on the market today.

 It is essential to do careful preparation and follow the steps to ensure optimal results.

 Here’s how to paint a window, whether it’s hinged or sliding.

How to Paint a Window
How to Paint a Window

 Before you begin…

 – Be sure to select an appropriate paint for the window: exterior or interior wood, aluminum, etc.

 – Before repainting old paint, make sure it is in good condition. If they are not, strip them completely so that the new coating will adhere better.

 Ensure that the paint you choose is compatible with the old paint or base (for example, acrylic will not hold on to glycerine). If necessary, use a primer beforehand to neutralize the base.

 – Do not paint the seals. Be sure to protect them with masking tape beforehand.

 – Adapt the brush to the size of the wood to be painted to avoid overflow: the brushes on the moldings, a small roller on the amounts, or a small flat brush for the edges.

 Warning: it is not recommended to paint PVC windows! Even with a special undercoat, the paint may flake off. If you choose dark color instead of white, be aware that PVC is not made to withstand expansion when exposed to the sun…

 1. Prepare the support

How to Paint a Window
How to Paint a Window

 Before painting your windows, it is advisable to prepare your support as with any painting project. This preparation will differ according to the nature of the support.

 Note: this method also applies to the painting of tilt and turn windows.

 – Remove old paint with a scraper, sanding paper, or paint stripper to obtain a clean and smooth surface.

 – Dust with a brush and clean the entire surface with a detergent.

 – Let dry.

 – Apply masking tape all around glazing, walls, metal elements if necessary, and on the joints.

 On new or good condition siding

How to Paint a Window
How to Paint a Window

 – Clean the window with a detergent to remove all dirt.

 – Let dry well.

 On raw wood

How to Paint a Window
How to Paint a Window

 – Sand with fine grain paper.

 – Apply a preventive treatment.

 On aluminum

How to Paint a Window
How to Paint a Window

 Sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to facilitate the adhesion of the new paint.

 2. Case 1: Apply the paint on a swinging window

 – Work on a closed window or lay the sash to facilitate horizontal work. In this case, be sure to remove all metal parts if they are not to be painted.

 – Apply a primer if necessary:

 ◦ Start with the moldings and rods with small brushes, then continue on the crosspieces and stiles with a small roller.

 ◦ Don’t overload your brush, or you’ll risk drips!

 ◦ Paint the frame last.

 ◦ Let it dry before moving on to the finish.

 – Use a paint that is appropriate for the surface. Proceed as you did with the primer coat.

 – Open the window and paint the remaining parts.

 – Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time and recommended number of coats.

 – Carefully remove the masking tape once the paint no longer sticks to your finger.

 – Wait several days before reassembling the sash onto the frame.

 2. Case 2: Apply paint to sliding window

 To successfully paint your sliding windows, we will start by painting the exterior sash:

 – Delineate the areas to be painted with masking tape. Protect the sealing joints in particular.

 – Open both sashes.

 – First, paint the visible parts of the outer frame without touching the tracks.

 – Move the inner sash to paint the rest of the outer frame. Let it dry.

 Then proceed to paint the inner sash:

 – Paint the inner sash and then the window frame.

 – Let it dry well.

 

 Finally, you must apply the paint to the slides and ornaments:

 – Proceed to paint the inner slides and the accessible portion of the outer slides.

 – Remove the masking tape before the paint is dry to avoid tearing it off.

 Materials for painting a window

 Sanding paper Approximately $5 per 3 sheets
 Alkaline detergent $3 approx.
 Masking tape $1 per roll
 Roller Starting at $5
 Flat brush Starting at $1
 Universal undercoat Starting at $10 per liter
 Scraper $10 approx.
 Sponge $1 approx.
 Stripper About $22/L
 Brush Starting at $3
Wallpaper

7 Important Steps to Install Wallpaper

7 Important Steps to Install Wallpaper

Contents

– Tips for hanging wallpaper

– Step 1: Prepare to hang the first strip of wallpaper

– Step 2: Cut the first strip of wallpaper

– Step 3: Glue the first strip of wallpaper

– Step 4: Install the first strip of wallpaper

– Step 5: Continue with the wallpaper installation

– Step 6: Wallpaper the openings

– Step 7: Do the finishing touches

With its variations of colors, textures, and patterns, wallpaper is back in fashion. It is relatively easy to decorate a room, as long as you use the right tools, follow a few installation guidelines, and be meticulous.

Before installing wallpaper, it is necessary to prepare the support to facilitate the gluing and the smooth holding.

Tips for installing wallpaper

– Choose a glue adapted to the type of paper (vinyl paper, standard…).

– Check the characteristics of the paper before starting: double gluing, joints…

– For papers with joints, remember to match each strip. When cutting, take into account the height of the seam usually indicated on the roll.

– Choose a plastic flask for vinyl and expanded papers.

– Remember to remove everything that is attached to the walls: switches, sockets, lighting…

1. Prepare the installation of the first strip of wallpaper

Mix wallpaper paste according to the dosage and instructions indicated on the product. Unfold the gluing table if necessary. If you don’t have one, you can use a door placed on two trestles, which will be easier to clean than a table.

Choose a corner, the edge of a door, or a window to lay the first strip. Check the verticality of this starting point with a spirit level.

To ensure the final rendering and verticality of the wallpaper, transfer the width of the strip to the wall with the tape measure. Draw a straight line that will serve as a guide along the entire height of the wall with the ruler and the spirit level.

Be careful: observe this step because this first strip serves as a base and reference for the rest of the work. If it is laid crooked, everything else will certainly be crooked.

2. Cut the first strip of wallpaper

– Determine the height of the strip.

– Remember to add about 10 cm for the cuts.

– On the gluing table, cut the first strip using a pair of scissors or a cutter.

3. Glue the first strip of wallpaper

– Turn the strip over on its back and glue it widely with the gluing brush, from the center to the edges.

– Fold it on itself, in accordion or wallet shape, without marking the folds, and let the glue soak in as long as necessary.

– If the wallpaper requires double gluing, remember to glue the wall as well.

4. Installing the first strip of wallpaper

To install the strip, start at the top:

– Position it according to the markings, remembering to make it protrude about 5 cm towards the ceiling for cutting.

– Marouflez with the brush to wallpaper, while leaving the interior towards outside to drive out the air.

– Check by stepping back that the strip is well-positioned. If necessary, gently peel off and replace.

– Unfold the entire height, respecting the line.

– Stamp the entire surface.

5. Continue the installation of the wallpaper

Wallpaper

Cut the following strips from the roll. Glue them as you go along.

When the glue time is over, apply the second strip starting from the top and following the edge of the first.

Note: do not take into account the sockets and switches that have been removed beforehand.

After taping, remove the excess glue with a wet sponge and pass the roller on the edges of the strips to glue them perfectly.

Repeat the operation for all the following strips.

6. Installing wallpaper at the level of the openings

It is easier to adapt the width of the strip so that it arrives close to the window than to take a whole strip and cut it following the angles of the window.

At doors and windows:

– Take the measurement of the width of the strip and possibly other cuts (height between the door and the ceiling…). Add about 10 cm for the cuts.

– Transfer these measurements to the strip, and with the mason’s rule, trace the cut.

– With the scissors or the cutter, cut according to the marks.

Proceed with the gluing, the installation, and the taping according to the previous indications.

7. Make the finishing touches

For cuts in the ceiling, at the bottom of the wall, and around the windows, use the wide spatula and the cutter.

Position the spatula perpendicular to the paper and follow the edge of the blade with the cutter.

Note: at the outlets and switches, cut a cross with the cutter. Remove the wires and reassemble the sockets and switches after the wallpaper is completely dry.

Materials for wallpapering

Wallpaper paste Approx. $3 per 250 g package
Wallpaper brush About $3
Aluminum ruler 2 m About $15
Gluing brush About $7
Sponge $1 approx.
Cutter About $3
Wide spatula About $5
Tape measure Starting at $4
Spirit level Starting at $4
Pair of scissors Starting at $3
Upholstery wheel Starting at $2

 

Do you want more DIY tips? Read more here:

Driving a Nail

5 Steps to Driving a Nail Like a Pro

5 Steps to Driving a Nail Like a Pro

 Summary

 – Step 1: Adopt the correct postures

 – Step 2: Case 1: Hold the large nails in your hand

 – Step 2: Case 2: Hold small nails without hitting your fingers

 – Step 3: Drive nails to reinforce fasteners

 – Step 4: Don’t splinter the wood when driving your nails

 – Step 5: Conceal the nail head

 – Drive special nails

 Driving a nail (or spike) correctly is not a trivial task. They tend to bend in all directions, and the novice user almost invariably ends up with a bandage on his or her fingertips. However, with a bit of method and a few tricks, you can easily solve the matter!

 Here’s how to get your nails right.

 1. Adopt the correct postures

 Hold the hammer properly.

 Handling the hammer is at least as important as holding the nail. Of course, the hammer is held by the handle. But the hand is not randomly positioned on the handle.

 – To begin, hold the hammer close to the head so that you have the best possible accuracy. Ensure that the tip (the flat part) is perpendicular to the axis of the nail shaft and strike in short bursts.

 – Once the nail holds itself in the holder, release it and move your hand back on the hammer handle to increase leverage and force. Then strike harder, always keeping the tip of the tool perpendicular to the axis of the nail.

 – For small nails that barely fit between your fingers, use the tapered end of the hammer (carpenter’s or electrician’s hammer). Strike gently, then turn the hammer over and strike harder, as explained above.

 The right position

 The ideal position, when possible, is to position yourself so that the eye is level with the head of the nail. This way, the natural striking angle will limit the risk of twisting. With your feet slightly apart and firmly planted on the floor or step ladder, stand back enough so that the hammer handle is parallel to the surface (board or wall) at the end of the stroke.

 2. Case 1: Hand-holding large nails

Driving a Nail

 Large carpenter’s nails are easy to hold because of their length. The most precise gesture is to hold them an almost full hand, thumb, and little finger from underneath. With practice, the gesture will become perfectly natural.

 It is advisable to wear protective gloves, as the power of the stroke required to drive the hammer can be dangerous if you slip.

 Good to know: the longer the point, the more likely it is to bend under the hammering. If it starts to twist in one direction, orient your hammer so that you hit the head in the opposite direction of the deformation.

 2. Case 2: Hold small nails without hitting your fingers

 Shorter nails require more precision. They are held between the thumb and forefinger, with the other three fingers spread wide apart to not interfere with the striking.

 To avoid hitting your fingers when driving tiny nails, especially with upholsterer’s seeds or headless pins that are difficult to hold, use small flat-nosed pliers or drive the nail into a strip of corrugated cardboard in advance. Then present the nail to the chosen location and push it in safely. Once the pin is sufficiently driven in, tear off the cardboard and finish driving it in.

 Caution: it is common to see users at work with the nails between their lips (or even in their mouths for seeds and small nails). It is imperative to use a cup within reach, a tool belt, or even a magnetic bracelet, as rustproofing products and metal particles are indeed harmful compounds!

 3. Plant spikes to reinforce fasteners

 A spike planted straight, perpendicular to the support, ensures an average fastener that will not resist pulling out. Giving it a bit of an angle will make it stronger.

 Drive the nail at an angle of at least 20 degrees (up to 45°) upwards in the case of a suspension, in a wall, or a wooden partition.

 In the case of a multi-piece assembly:

 – Always consider fastening the thinner piece to the thicker one to increase embedment depth and improve anchorage in the more massive one.

 – Always choose a point with a length slightly less than the thickness of the two pieces to be joined (- 1 cm), possibly considering the additional driving depth if you conceal the head.

 – Whenever possible, cross the points in an “X” shape or alternate the direction of driving to obtain better resistance in all directions.

 4. Don’t split the wood when driving your nails

 Especially above 3 or 4 mm, nails tend to spread the wood grain and cause it to splinter. Even more so near the ends. There are several ways to drive your nails without splitting the wood:

 – If you must align several nails on the same piece of wood, position them in a staggered pattern. This staggering will prevent the nails from splitting the wood by spreading the wire.

 – Alternatively, use a small wood bit to drill a pilot hole through the entire thickness of the piece.

 – When drilling is impossible, dull the nail. To do this, turn the nail over on a hard surface (anvil, vice, stone, sledgehammer, etc.) and strike the tip with a sharp hammer. This will blunt the nail and shear the fibers instead of pulling them apart.

 5. Conceal the nail head

 A visible nail head can be very unsightly, especially in woodworking. It can also become an obstacle, for example, when laying a floor on joists, as you must perfectly drive each nail in to allow the installation of the next board.

 – With round-headed nails, minimal diameter, the simplest method is to make them disappear in the wood with a nail punch. One to two millimeters is more than enough. Soft and fibrous woods will almost certainly close up and hide the joint. If not, a little wood filler will do the trick.

 – To hide a significant point or flathead, the method is to lift a small chip of wood with a small (8 to 10 mm wide), very sharp chisel. Push the point into the groove and finish with a punch as before. Finally, replace the chip with a clamp after dripping a drop of wood glue. Wipe off any drips before drying with a damp cloth.

 Drive special nails

 Some nail designs require particular installation or precautions.

 – Spikes (or carpenter rider nails) are generally used to fasten wire or wire mesh to fence posts or other vertical pieces. To avoid bouncing the support, press a sledgehammer back with your other hand after starting to drive as with a normal spike. The heavy tool will absorb the shock and prevent the post from moving.

 – Hardened spikes (for concrete spikes) are highly brittle due to their heat treatment. Be sure to protect your eyes with safety glasses.

 – Decorative nails, especially round-headed upholstery nails, are extremely fragile. It is best to use a hammer with a hard plastic head (auto bodywork hammer). Be especially careful not to bend the shank or the head. Strike gently from end to end. The same goes for special nails used to fasten corrugated sheets or bitumen shingles.

 Tip: Metal detectors are available for a few dozen dollars. They will allow you to detect metal structures, rebar, piping, and live electrical cables in the walls before driving a nail into them.

Read more here:

4 Important Tips for DIY Beginners

DIY

The 7 Top Safety Precautions for DIY

The 7 Top Safety Precautions for DIY

Contents

    – Before you start

    – During the DIY process

    – After the work

    – What to do in case of an accident?

On average, one person is admitted to the emergency room every two minutes for a DIY accident. Falls, cuts, burns, crushing, electrocution, and poisoning are the most frequent injuries.

Here are all the precautions you need to take to work safely.

Good to know: to stay on good terms with your neighbors, remember to warn them of your DIY work. Check with your town hall to find out what hours are tolerated and set by the bylaws.

Before starting

The vast majority of DIY accidents occur when basic safety rules are not followed. To avoid this:

    – 1. Please choose the right tools for your work and make sure they are in good condition. An unsuitable or worn tool can be dangerous for your safety and that of your environment.

    – 2. Protect yourself:

        ◦ by using quality safety equipment: gloves, mask, chemical resistant boots, hearing protection, hard hat, and safety glasses;

        ◦ tying back your hair;

        ◦ removing your jewelry;

        ◦ choosing clothing that is neither too loose so as not to snag the material nor too tight so as not to impede your movement.

    – 3. Arrange your work environment to suit the job:

        ◦ Be sure not to use electricity near water.

        ◦ Do not perform work in a poorly lit and ventilated area.

        ◦ Keep your work area free of dust and other items that may interfere with your work.

        ◦ Check the stability and sturdiness of the tools and supports used.

    – 4. Read the instruction manuals to learn as much as possible about the specifics of the tools you are using and the safety instructions to follow.

      Warning: an odorless product is not a risk-free product. Many products contain chemicals, even if they do not smell.

During the work

DIY

When your work is in progress:

    – 5. Keep children away: chemical fumes, splashes, and noise are even more dangerous for them than they are for you.

    – 6. Stay focused on your work: When you’re working on a project, even small mistakes can have dramatic consequences. It’s very easy to break a finger with a hammer or fall off a scaffold because you didn’t secure yourself properly. So be careful throughout the DIY process.

After the job

If the job is finished, you still have a few steps to take before you are completely done:

    – 7. (i) Tidy up your work environment: unplug all appliances and put toxic products out of reach of children.

    – 7. (ii) Tidy up, clean up, and air out: this will prevent you from getting your feet caught in the extension cord or causing a fire by leaving an appliance plugged in.

Please note: this list is not exhaustive. The precautions to take depend on the work being done and the equipment used.

What to do in case of an accident?

    – In the event of a minor burn, place the affected area under cold water for 15 minutes and then apply greasy tulle.

    – In case of a cut, disinfect the affected area and protect it with a bandage.

    – In case of projection on the face, rinse abundantly with water, and contact a doctor.

    – In case of injection or ingestion of the chemical, contact your nearest poison control center.

How did you find this post? Do you want more information on this subject? Leave us your comments below, and we’ll get back to you quickly.

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4 Important Tips for DIY Beginners

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4 Important Tips for DIY Beginners

4 Important Tips for DIY Beginners

Do you have to do small jobs that do not require the services of a professional? For instance, hanging a shelf, assembling and disassembling furniture from a kit, and more…

You may be hesitant to try some do-it-yourself tricks, but thanks to the easy DIY tips in this post, you will be able to complete small projects at home. So let’s begin without any delay!

1. Unscrewing a rusty screw

When moisture gets between the threads of a screw and the threads of its nut, it doesn’t take long for rust to appear, welding the contact between the two pieces.

The screw is so rusty that the screwdriver won’t turn. You are now stopped in your DIY session. How to unblock this screw without having a specific product at hand?

There are three possibilities:

– Pour a few drops of kerosene on the screw. If, however, it is still impossible to remove, make a mixture of machine oil/nail polish remover, leave it to act for 15 minutes, and remove the screw with a screwdriver.

– Use white vinegar and pour it on the head of the screw, leave it for 15 minutes and remove the screw with your screwdriver.

– Insert the screwdriver into the rusty screw, adjust the wrench to hold the screwdriver, turn the wrench while pressing the screwdriver. 

Good to know: do not reassemble a rusty screw or one whose impression is starting to be damaged.

2. Drive a thin nail easily

DIY
Fred Stewart begins the process of reshoeing a horse named Dag, after moving to the shade. Fred began by putting on a new shoe on the left rear hoof. Later in the session, he began work on the left front foot. The right hooves will wait for another day.

Driving a nail seems simple and within reach of any DIY enthusiast. However, driving fine nails requires a minimum of technique. Here are a few tips that will allow you to hammer them in one after the other without ever hitting your fingers:

– Position the nail in the desired location, keeping it straight. Then give the nail small taps, always holding it with the other hand. When your fingers become too thick to hold the nail still, remove them, then finish by tapping with the hammer.

– Pinch the nail with a clothespin and hit it with a hammer without risking injury.

– Take a sheet of cardboard, stick your nail in it; the cardboard will hold the nail straight; you will just have to tear it when you have driven the nail into the wood.

Good to know: don’t forget to grip your hammer firmly by the bottom of the handle; your gesture will be more precise.

3. Driving a screw in a hard-to-reach place

DIY

Sometimes you’ll need to screw in a place where you can’t hold the screw with your fingers, for example, in a place that’s too narrow to fit your hand. How do you manage to do this without getting upset? You have several solutions:

– Put a sticky substance, such as fixing paste, double-sided adhesive, between the screwdriver and the screw, it is the screwdriver that will put the screw in the right place, and you can then screw without problems.

– Slide the screw between the teeth of a small comb that will act as a “third hand” and suitable for screws of different sizes.

– Push in a piece of plastic or rubber tube at the end of the screwdriver to hold the screw head.

– Attach a paper clip to the end of the screwdriver with a rubber band or adhesive tape and wedge the screw between its legs.

– Magnetize the screw by placing it on a magnet for a few minutes.

4. Use a toolbox

If you’re tinkering on the weekends or in the evenings, it’s always maddening to have to stop in the middle of a task to buy the right size screw, nail, or dowel.

Therefore, plan a toolbox that will be very useful:

– a collection of screws, nails, hooks, and dowels in the most commonly used sizes;

– a set of drill bits of different diameters for your drill, for the most common materials, concrete, brick, metal, wood.

You will also need to bring:

– a wooden pencil;

– a large ruler or tape measure;

– a spirit level.

This will prevent you from stopping a DIY project due to a lack of suitable materials.

Note: to find suitable materials quickly, it is best to store them carefully in small boxes or transparent plastic bags.

And, that’s it 🙂 We are now done with those quick and easy tips. How did you find this post? If you have a good foundation for repairs and minor maintenance at home, please share your tips in the section below!

 

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4 Easy Tips Every DIY Enthusiast Should Know!

Welcome

If you’re a creative person looking for project suggestions, or stuck indoors with nothing better to do, have a look at some of our nifty DIY guides here on The Craftsperson’s Blog! You’re sure to find the spark you need.

4 Easy Tips Every DIY Enthusiast Should Know!

4 Easy Tips Every DIY Enthusiast Should Know!

Content:

1. Drill into tile

2. Protecting paint cans from drips

3. Drill a hole at the proper depth

4. Save paint brushes and rollers.

 

Like most people, you have to do small jobs for which a professional is not essential: hanging a shelf, painting a room in the house, assembling and disassembling furniture in a kit … However, you are a novice and hesitating about trying some DIY tricks?

Our 4 tips for easy DIY will be a great help! Thanks to them, you will carry out small building sites at home without any difficulty.

Your kitchen needs shelves, racks, brackets, and other accessories, and you need to drill into the tiles. But how do you drill into tile or ceramic without breaking or splitting the substrate?

1. Drill into tile

Here is the right way to go about it to get a perfect result without stress:

– use a concrete drill with tungsten carbide at the end;

– remove the percussion from your drill;

– stick a cross tape where you are going to drill (this will prevent your tile from breaking);

– start by drilling at low speed;

– Put the hammer back on your drill when the hole starts to form;

– speed up the drilling until you are done drilling the necessary depth.

Good to know: if after some time, the hole you drilled in the tile is no longer needed, you can fill it with special tinted cement, whose color will blend in with that of the tile.

2. Protecting paint cans from drips

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Paint without getting your fingers in a knot and keep your paint can clean by avoiding drips on the outside? It’s possible by following these ideas:

– Get a large rubber band that you place vertically around the paint can, so you wipe your brush on the edge of the rubber band.

– Place a wire across the can, so you can drip the brush on it without dripping.

Good to know: to reopen paint cans and prevent the lid from resisting, always clean the contact surfaces with a cloth before closing the can after use.

3. Drill a hole at the proper depth

You need to make a hole in the wall to screw something in, but you’re not sure it’s the correct depth. There are several ways to drill a hole to the right depth:

– Adjustable stop: some drills have a depth stop, a small metal ring that you attach to the drill bit with a screw. 

– The adhesive tape: wrap a piece of thick adhesive tape around the drill bit at the proper depth to get a perfect result. 

– Adjustable guide: This is a metal rod mounted along the side of some drills and locked by a knob. Mount the drill, set the guide to the desired depth, and drill until the guide contacts the wall.

Note: If you have several holes of the same depth to drill, ensure the adhesive has not been trimmed during the previous drilling.

4. Save paint brushes and rollers

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A paintbrush that is not cleaned quickly will be unusable because the brush bristles will become hard as wood. 

Between two coats of paint, it is often necessary to wait several hours, even a whole day. If you want to avoid the tedious task of cleaning brushes and rollers completely between coats, there are several solutions:

– Put them in a container filled with water so that they are perfectly covered by the liquid, even if you use glycerine paint;

– wrap them in aluminum foil;

– Place them in a plastic bag and close it carefully to prevent air from entering;

– clean them by soaking them in white spirit.

– Lay the brush flat on newspaper, then press the brush hairs gently with the back of a palette knife.

Your brushes and rollers will not dry out, and you can use them immediately when you return to your worksite.

Good to know: recover the brush by soaking it for a few hours in boiled vinegar. If any residue still sticks to the brush, remove it with a knife blade, then re-soak it in white spirit. When the brush has marinated sufficiently, wash it with soapy water.

How did you find this post? Remember to share and comment below, and stay tuned for our next post on more easy tips you did not really think of.